Shauna Coxsey is set to call time on her climbing career after narrowly missing out on a spot in the women’s combined final.
The British trailblazer has enjoyed an incredible career which culminated in her participation in sport climbing’s Olympic debut at Tokyo 2020.
But Coxsey has struggled with a back problem in the build-up to the Games and failed to make the cut for the final with a score of 704.00.
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Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret finished way out in front in the qualification with a score of 56.00, with 17-year-old sensation Chaehyun Seo closest to the leader on 85.00.
The top eight qualify for the final and a win in the speed or bouldering qualification was enough to see an athlete through to the medal decider.
Poland’s Aleksandra Miroslaw took the speed qualification while Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret was flawless in the bouldering qualification, with both women into the final before the lead qualifier.
Coxsey’s 16th place finish in the speed qualification meant she needed a big performance in her strongest discipline, bouldering, and the Brit delivered in style with an assured display.

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A brilliant start began with Coxsey topping the first problem in just two attempts. Coxsey had little trouble with boulder number two, topping that in her second attempt, but was made to think on the third and couldn’t get past the first zone.
Coxsey also failed to top the final problem, but a finish of two tops and four zones was an excellent showing for the 28-year-old and meant she finished the qualification in fourth place.
The combination of speed and bouldering at the Olympics was a controversial one and it was obvious why as those who had stuttered in the speed challenge excelled in the bouldering.
American Brooke Raboutou topped the first two problems and mastered the tricky fourth boulder in one attempt, ending her run with two flashes to set a new standard in the category.

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It was then the favourite Garnbret’s chance to impress and impress she did. The 22-year-old flashed all four problems in a masterclass of a performance. Garnbret didn’t make a single mistake, smashing through every boulder with relative ease.
The lead proved to be a punishing climb for the first half of the field, with no athlete making it up above 29 until South Korea’s Chaehyun Seo. The 17-year-old reached 40 moves, just short of the top, to set a new standard for Coxsey and the remaining competitors.

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When Coxsey’s turn came round she needed to get past the 26 mark to give her a chance of qualifying but the Brit fell at the 21st mark to drop down to eleventh place.
The lead score gave Coxsey a total score of 704.00 which wasn’t enough to qualify for the final.
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